Revisiting Jeremy Silman’s Imbalanced-Based Chess Thinking PART 2
After days of pondering about Silman’s thinking method, I slowly remembered important bits and pieces of it. But before anything else, let’s take a look at what a chess player is called to do when thinking the Silman way…
Take Note Of All The Imbalances – In a chess game, there are different major imbalances that exist at the same time. When formulating a plan, you should take note of all the imbalances…not just for your camp but for your opponent’s as well.
Determine Which Side Of The Board You Want To Play On – Queenside, center, or kingside – which side of the board are you going to play on? You should play on the side where a favorable imbalance exists.
Find The All Candidate Moves – Your chosen candidate moves should make use of the favorable imbalance you set your sights on or gives the possibility of creating one. You should make use of your position’s positive imbalances unless you’re forced to play a purely defensive move.
Calculate All The Moves – Yes, fellas! Calculation should come at the end of the thinking process. Not before you’ve found the plan to adopt.
A Little Correction To My Previous Posts…
I think I’ve made some mistakes in my previous post concerning the imbalances involved in IM Jeremy Silman’s thinking technique. Anyway, here’s a brief introduction to them and I’ll be taking on them in greater detail on the next posts on this series…
Superior Minor Piece – This pertains to the battle and interplay between the Bishops and Knights…how are you going to make your minor piece superior to the opponent’s?
Pawn Structure – This is one broad subject. Heck! Books have been written about pawn structures. But we’ll keep it simple and just take note of the important and most common pawn structures seen in play. They would be backward pawns, doubled pawns, isolated pawns, passed pawns, and that’s just to name a few.
Space – This pertains to your territory on the chess board. How far have your pieces and pawns gone from the chess equator? The same question should be asked concerning your opponent’s position.
Material – This means owning pieces that are valued greater than the other side. For example, having more pawns, having a Rook for a Knight, and the like.
Control Of A Key File And Square – Files, ranks, and diagonals – these act as pathways for your pieces. It’s not uncommon for masters and strong chess players to build plans that center on taking advantage of weak squares in the opponent’s camp or force to create one.
Development – This gives you more pieces…more firepower in a certain section of the board. This is a temporary imbalance and you should try to take advantage of it as the opponent will eventually catch up.
Initiative – This means dictating the tempo of the game. This is another temporary imbalance that you should take advantage of right away.
I guess that’s all for now. Hopefully, I’ll remember the details and principles about each imbalance correctly.
A Flawed Chess Game Of Mine
Ok, just to give you an idea of how much I suck as a chess player after years of no practice whatsoever, here’s a recent 5-minute game of mine…provided with some annotations. I was playing as Black and although I won, this game revealed my deficiencies as a chess player.
1. d4 b6
Well, I’m not a big student of the opening phase of chess. This defense, referred to as the English Defense and sometimes the Owen’s Defense, is one that I know a bit about. I’ve played it exclusively as Black no matter what White plays a couple of years back.
2. f4 Bb7
I’m not sure if White’s second move is a good one…but my instincts are telling me that it isn’t. I’m sure this guy knew right from the onset that I’m going to fianchetto my Bishop. Yet he intentionally kept the diagonal – h1-a8 open. The e4-square is especially weak since it can no longer be controlled by a pawn.
After this move, I developed my pieces and pawns to take advantage of this hole.
3. e3 f5
Another pawn move from White, which I don’t think contributes anything positive to his position. Why not a simple developing move that at least exerts some influence on the whole at e4…perhaps 3.Nc3? My pawn move on the other hand makes sure that the e4-square belongs to me. At the back of my head, however, I think it’s too committal.
The opening of the g8-a2 diagonal is my source of problems later on.
4. Qh5+ g6
Another useless move from White. He even gave my f8-Bishop a good square to develop on. What move would I recommend? Well, why not c4? This helps him advance his pawn to d5…blocking the b7-Bishop. And he can work on getting in e3-e4.
Again, I’m no expert. I’m not sure if this is the right plan.
5. Qd1 Nf6
Now, I’m ahead in development. And my pieces – Nf6 and Bb7, along with my f5-pawn concentrate on the hole left at e4.
6. Nf3 d6
White’s move is just as good as anything else. But I would prefer Nc3 instead…lending some control on the e4-square. My move on the other hand prepares to shift the Knight on d7 – making a c5 or e5 break possible. Opening the position is in my favor since I’m better developed.
7. b3 Nbd7
Yet another pawn move from White. As for me, I just made the expected developing move for my b8-Knight.
8. Bb5 Bg7
White pins my Knight – this makes the e5-break impossible. However, I think better would’ve been Bc4, which helps keep my king in the center for some time. On my turn, I just prepared castling and developed my f8-Bishop to the only sensible square.
9. a4 O-O
Yet another pawn move which doesn’t help his position.
10. Bc4+?! Kh8?
Better would’ve been castling for White. As you’ll see later, he never got the chance to get his King to safety. My move loses material! Saying that this is a 5-minute game is not a good excuse…the right move would’ve been …d5.
11. Ng5 d5
It’s just now that I can see the threat of …Ne6. My move is a little too late. White nets material no matter what happens.
12. Bd3 Qc8
White goes for safety first. However, better would’ve been Ne6 right away. Now, I have a chance to prepare the opening of lines. He may net material but I’m still ahead in development. There’s gotta be a way I can make my advantage count.
13. h4 c5
I’m not sure what’s with h4. Well, there are threats of h4-h5…attempting to bring the Rook in h1 to life. He has some developed pieces pointing on the Kingside but I think I can defend. And let’s keep this rule in mind – only attack on the flanks when you have the center under control. I have 2 pawn breaks that can open the position…that’s what I’m counting on. I was thinking of …Ng4 preparing …e5.
But it’s a 5 minute game!
14. c3 e5!?
White maintains the tension, but of course, here comes my second pawn break. This sacs a pawn with the hopes that somehow, the position will break open, giving my 2 developed Bishops some targets. I think it makes sense since I’m ahead in development.
15. dxe5 Ng4 16. Ne6 Ndxe5!?
This is what I had in mind when I played e5. I don’t think this is correct, but at least, I have 2 imbalances favoring me although I’m down in material – I have the bishop pair and a lead in development which calls for an open position.
17. Nxf8 Nxd3+ 18. Qxd3 Qxf8 19. Rg1?
Another error I believe. I think he should’ve gone for h5…his previous plan of attacking on the Kingside.
19…Re8 20. Ra2
I think better would’ve been the immediate …d4. I was looking for a wide open position…why didn’t I do it? Well, tactical deficiency I guess. However, I think my move would do just as well. White, on his turn, prepares Re2.
20…d4 21. cxd4 cxd4? 22. Re2 Nxe3?
On both occasions, I missed the simple win with …Be4! I was fixated with attacking and mating the King that I completely forgot to look for other options that would secure the victory far more easily.
23. Bxe3 dxe3 24. Rxe3 Rd8 25. Qe2 Bd4 26. Kf2? Re8 27. Kf1 Rxe3 28. Qd2 Ba6+ 0-1
It’s mate in 5 fellas! How? That’s up for you to find out.
Some Random Thoughts About Chess Openings
What exactly is your job during the opening phase of a chess game?
Is it to start a quick attack against the enemy king? Is it to extract a theoretical advantage by playing a memorized 20-move variation of the ‘this-and-that’ opening? Is it to bring out your pieces as fast as you can?
I believe it was Grandmaster Suetin who gave a satisfactory answer to the question above – “Your duty in the opening phase is to achieve a playable middlegame.”
But here’s the bigger question – how’re you going to achieve a playable middlegame from the opening?
Assuming that, like me, you also have a table to bring food to and bills to pay, spending long hours memorizing the latest innovations in the Ruy Lopez, Sicilian Defense, French Defense, etc. is out of question. I don’t know about you but I’d rather spend my spare time on other aspects of chess – the middlegame, endgame, tactics, etc. rather than the opening.
IMHO, to achieve a playable middlegame from the opening, one must start creating major differences in both positions to give each side something to play for and develop their pieces to right from the first move.
Let’s take a look at the Sicilian Defense – 1.e4 c5, White claims his share of the center by moving his King-pawn while Black prevents his opponent from establishing the central pawn duo by preventing d2-d4. Let’s look a little deeper – 2.Nf3 Nc6 3.d4 cxd4 4.Nxd4. It doesn’t take a master to see that the development of both Knights is aimed at the d4-square.
White prepares d2-d4 with his second move while Black adds more influence to the d4-square by moving his Knight to c6.
On his third move, White challenges Black’s control of the d4-square by pushing his Queen Pawn 2 squares up.
Note though that he could’ve chosen other moves that prepare d2-d4 or challenge Black’s control of that square like Bb5 followed with Bxc6. However, this move would give Black the Bishop Pair. It would be favorable for Black to open the position since the two Bishops can cut across it. That’s another major difference between the White and Black camp.
On the other hand, after Bxc6, Black would have doubled-pawns no matter which way he takes. This means he’ll have an extra open file for his Rooks, more control on central squares…especially d5, but that also means White has a target – the c5-pawn.
White could also opt for 3.c3 to prepare d2-d4. But since that doesn’t threaten anything, Black can start central action right away with 3…d7-d5. If White takes with 4.exd5, Black follows up with 4…Qxd5 and White can be saddled with an isolated d-pawn, another major imbalance, after 5.d4 cxd4 6.cxd4.
Both camps would then play to control the square in front of the isolated d-pawn. White have greater mobility for his pieces and he can use that to start an attack while
Black is still bringing his pieces to optimal squares. On the other hand, Black will try to subject the isolated d-pawn to pressure with his heavy pieces while trying to exchange minor pieces to reduce the pawns defenders in an effort to win it.
OK, I’m not an opening expert, and I don’t know if that rant about chess opening made sense to you.
But I do hope you get the part that during the opening phase of the game, you don’t just bring your pieces out and make moves for the sake of developing them…you must develop your pieces in accordance to the imbalances present on the board.
Revisiting Jeremy Silman’s Imbalanced-Based Chess Thinking PART 1
A glance through my posts will surely reveal that I’m a huge fan of Jeremy Silman, his books, and especially his imbalanced-based chess thinking process.
Come to think of it – chess is not a game of memorization, although it’s still needed. It’s not a game of hand-speed. Chess is a THINKING GAME.
If you know how to think right and judge the position in front of you, you can almost always come up with the right move. If you don’t, then cross your fingers and pray that your opponent doesn’t know how to think right, too.
Silman’s imbalanced-based thinking teaches the serious and improving player how to think in chess by taking good note of the major differences in the black and white camp…looking at the trumps and disadvantages in both positions.
This makes it easier for one to form a concrete plan.
What Are Chess Imbalances?
Imbalances, according to Silman, are the major differences in both camps. They’re not advantages or disadvantages…they’re just that differences. In his books, Jeremy identified 7 imbalances namely…
1. Pawn Structures
2. Superior Minor Piece
3. Squares and Square Complexes
4. Rooks and Files
5. Space
6. Development
7. Initiative
The Structure
Here’s how Silman’s imbalanced based thinking works…
1. Find and take note of the imbalances on both sides.
2. Form a plan how to emphasize your imbalances…turning them into advantages while neutralizing the opponent’s efforts to do the same.
3. Form a list of candidate moves.
4. And only after you have completed the steps above should you start to calculate.
For example, Black has a backward pawn on d-file…specifically on d6 – that’s one of the imbalances on his camp. On the other hand, you have a semi-open d-file. What would you do?
Simple! Pile up your major pieces on the d-file…put that d6-pawn under immense pressure since you know that it cannot be supported by a fellow pawn. You may even opt to exchange minor pieces since that will reduce the defenders of that pawn. Alternatively, you may choose to station a minor piece, preferably a knight.
You can now pick candidate moves – Rd1 and perhaps follow it up with Qd2, you can also go for Nc3, or eliminate that f6-Knight with Bg5 followed with Bxf6…and so on.
In a nutshell, that’s how Silman’s chess. I’m struggling to recall the in-depth details relating to each and every imbalance. But I will post what I can remember.
BAD NEWS! My Chess Books Are Missing!
Now unlike many of you, I don’t have myriads of chess books in my library. I don’t have compendiums of opening manuals that cover every variation of the Sicilian Defense, Ruy Lopez, or French Defense. Matter of fact, I don’t have any opening book or manual!
HOWEVER, I can proudly say that the chess books I’ve chosen are of great quality and they provide hours of priceless chess instruction to the serious and improving player.
Re-Assess Your Chess Workbook – Written by world-famous International Master Jeremy Silman, this book will teach you Silman’s well-known imbalance-based way of thinking in chess.
After all, it’s a thinking game. Knowing how to make decisions and think right will make you a far stronger player than reading reams of opening theory.
How To Be A Deadly Chess Tactician – This one is written by a non-master but very strong tournament player David LeMoir. This one has helped me view a chess game and spot tactics and combinations like I haven’t before.
Attack With Tal – Tal has a special place in every chess player’s heart – master or amateur. This guy showed how to play daring, exciting, and speculative chess with his ‘unsound’ sacrifices which dismantled even the almighty Botvinnik! This is your chance to learn how to play and attack like Tal.
I can still remember reading through the games and the corresponding analysis and annotations without a board. It really strengthened my tactical vision and calculation skills.
How Good Is Your Chess & Test Your Chess – In my opinion, these 2 books focusing on move-prediction written by Grandmaster Daniel King go hand-in-hand with Silman’s workbook. These books will challenge you to predict the moves made by the likes of Kramnik, Kasparov, Korchnoi, Svidler, and others masters.
I went through the challenges of this book after getting used to Silman’s way of thinking. It helped me get about 80% of the moves and an overall increase in my playing strength!
These 5 books are all that I have in my VERY small chess library…and they’re all lost now unfortunately. How will I train and improve in chess now that my chess books are gone without a trace? That’s the BIGGEST question.
